Only three major countries—Belgium, the U.K. and Spain—have officially experienced more Covid-19 deaths per capita than Italy. Yet more than two months after the government began easing its lockdown, life has started to feel almost normal. Most Romans wear masks inside shops, and the double-cheek kiss mercifully has lost its ubiquity. But the Eternal City’s public spaces have grown crowded, even as tourists stay away. Via del Corso seemed as full Wednesday as it had been pre-pandemic. Families flock to parks every weekend,…

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